I am sitting in the Sainte-Geneviève library in Paris thinking about saints and conmen.
I’m wondering if my history is right, translating a
word, writing down a new reference in this library named for the second saint
of Paris. The Sainte-Geneviève Library. When I look up, I see rows of books. I
see painted designs created more than 200 years ago, during a rebuild that was
supposed to encourage a new socially-diverse flock of students and researchers
in the public library. Maybe this is the perfect place to write about flaws. A
beautiful quiet place, vast and promising, all about practical choices and
impractical history.
As saints go, Geneviève seems very real. More real
than that other, older, patron saint of Paris, Saint Denis. Sure, he was
executed by the Romans, he’s an honest-to-god martyr and all, but I can’t get
serious about a saint who is best remembered for walking 7.3 kilometres while
carrying his head in his hands.
Sainte Geneviève is so much more interesting. I
can’t help my eyes turning towards her.
I picture the undoubtedly muddy Paris area in the 5th
century and imagine a girl born to a wealthy family, just a little ways outside
Paris. Maybe she leans into religion as her fighting stick because she truly
has holy visions. Maybe she doesn’t much feel like dying in childbirth, and a
nunnery seems a viable alternative. She has her reasons.
In the 5th century, most Parisians were still
worshipping a range of gods—spreading your bets across the table is a principle
I can get behind. Worship the river and the trees (Celtic heritage—the founding
tribe of Paris were the Parisii); leave offerings for the Roman household gods
(always good to have someone keeping an eye on the hearth); pay some lip
service to the new bearded patriarchal Christian god (the dude seems
grouchy—best to keep all bases covered).
From the beginning, Geneviève was committed to the
one god concept. In Paris, she worked her way up the ranks using personal
mysticism as her weapon of choice. That’s how the story goes. But mostly, she
talked. She used words and gestures. Symbols.
In 441 AD, Attila the Hun threatened the city but
never actually attacked. Legend claims that Geneviève made sure he didn’t, just
as she’s on record for convincing her fellow Parisians not to surrender to
Childeric when he besieged the city. Geneviève apparently walked alone around
Ile de la Cité wearing a white nightgown, claiming she had a vision. Believe in
the vision if you like, but what’s important is to imagine Geneviève, in her
nightgown, walking in the street, looking innocently unafraid while she spoke
about the importance of survival.
When she was no longer traipsing around in her
nightgown, Geneviève pulled off a more impressive negotiation: she convinced the
brand-new leader of France—a violent, pagan, 20-year-old Frank named Clovis—to
become Christian. Originating in West Germany, the Franks claimed to be
descended from a sea god. Geneviève argued for the political advantages of
Christianity; Clovis and his wife Clothilde converted.
This is a saint who used words. The library is
rightly named for her. This is a saint who lived to be about 90 years old. Her
body was visited as a sacred relic for centuries afterwards. Revered and
carried through Paris in times of stress. Personally, I’d have put more money
on her words.
Her golden tomb sits in a church at the top of the Montagne
Ste-Geneviève, though the saint’s body is gone; during the French Revolution,
Parisians burned her bones and threw the ashes in the Seine. Eh, well, dust to
the river gods, there’s some divine justice in that.
The gilded cage that holds her stone sarcophagus is
stuffed with tiny paper messages and prayers on folded paper, offerings of
words sneaked through the thin seam of the gilded case. Someone must clean out
the words from time to time, because the papers are always bright and new,
never old or faded.
The Montagne Ste-Geneviève isn’t a mountain, it’s a
mild hill, for Parisians have always been prone to exaggeration. Back in 502,
when Geneviève died, Clothilde and Clovis founded an abbey here in the saint’s
honour. Manuscripts were copied, books collected. Sainte-Geneviève librarians
worked steadily through the Middle Ages, the Renaissance, and the Age of
Enlightenment. The books—and at least some of the librarians—survived the
Revolution. The library was moved to this purpose-built hall, where I am now.
The collection holds centuries of books. Words.
Symbols. I am just one toe over onto the spiritual side of damned unbeliever,
but I do think there is something miraculous about the survival of this
library.
I cannot decide if my subject matter is perfectly
appropriate for this saintly library. Undecided, but not ambivalent. I am
writing about Bienville, the Montreal-born soldier, gambler, and conman who named
New Orleans to please his French King. Bienville retired to Paris, but he was born
in the year 1681, in my hometown of Montreal. He joined the French navy at age
12, fought under the French flag from Hudson Bay to the Caribbean, and at age
19, while standing in a small pirogue in the Mississippi River, he told a
bald-faced lie to the English. History prefers to call this a Bluff. He is a
man famous for talking. He used words and gestures. Symbols. He was not a nice
man. He was interesting. He and Geneviève have that in common.
The rare portraits of Bienville shows him in frilly
18th-century lace, and fashionable formal armor. But unlike the court nobles of
King Louis 15th, Bienville was tattooed from the neck down—several witnesses
reported he was covered in formal ink, marking different treaties and alliances;
he had an enormous snake tattooed around his groin. He spoke French and several
Native languages of North America, including Yama, which is the Mobilian Trade
Language, Mobilian jargon, a language of necessity and utility.
Language like a rough hatchet. Like a perfectly
weighted machete. Like a Swiss army knife, a blade, a word, for every occasion,
a tool for every need. There is only need. Say what you mean to say, wield a
knifeblade of language. Walk through the streets or the wade through the
marshes and use all the symbols you have.
Saint or conman, either one. Sharp-tongued.
Bienville too has a question about his bones. He died
in Paris, was buried here, was moved, possibly to the new cemetery in
Montmartre, though the record is unclear. Dust to the river gods, appropriate
enough. Where is his ghost? I don’t know. Sainte Geneviève might tell me, but I
doubt she is interested. She has her own books and ashes to keep.

Lisa Pasold is a poet and story-teller originally from
Montreal; she has spent much of her adult life living in Paris, writing about
the City of Light. Lisa is the author of 5 books of fiction and poetry; in
2012, her work, Any Bright Horse, was shortlisted for the Governor
General’s Award. Lisa’s work has appeared in publications such as The Globe
and Mail, The Los Angeles Review, New American Writing and Billboard.
She has lectured for the American University in Paris, the University of New
Orleans, and Curious Minds at Hot Docs in Toronto, among others. Lisa is the
creator of Improbable Walks podcast, which explores the history of Paris
streets.