In
a vast field, before the Los Angeles County Museum of Art was built nearby, between
Wilshire boulevard and Fairfax, there were immense pits of oozing oscilating
tar –alive – not ancient like the skeletons of the wooly mammoths and mastadons
revealed as the tar lurched, bubbled and poured over them.
My
father enjoyed cemeteries and maybe this was the ultimate cemetery –one whose
interred you could see gyrating in their primeval death.
It
was early morning, about 8:30 and chilly for LA. We bundled in jackets against
the light fog. Or it was an afternoon so bright that the sky seemed like it
might disappear into another stage set. We never went in the evening –but we
could have –there were no fences, tickets or explainers. There were flimsy
bollards around the perimeters. There were maybe three pits, each covered by a
pavilion without walls, held up by posts. We usually stood at the edge of the biggest.
For how long would we
stay there looking down?
I asked my dad some
questions that he couldn’t answer.
We
always wanted to go again, my siblings and I, we were never refused. I could
tell that it was a rare place as exciting for us as for grownups. We detected
this in the attention of our Dad’s body as he gazed into the tar. He went silent.
We followed.
Mastodons
were here, exactly where we stood, when it was savannah. Sabretooth tigers
hunted here in Pleistocene forests. Now
it was an immense scrubby field with a few drinking fountains: Hancock Park.
This swath of Wilshire, including the tar pits,
is still called “The Miracle Mile.” Many movies have been shot here. I’ve seen
none of them. One is called Volcano
another Earthquake – but the tar pits
are not a result of volcanic activity – they were formed seismically through
multiple intervals of uplift and faulting that allowed crude petroleum to seep
to the surface from underground deposits over the last 50,000 years. The
shallow petroleum pools entrapped and preserved millions of fossils
representing over 660 species of plants, organisms, vertebrates, and
invertebrates.
In 1910, it was the Salt Creek oilfields,
dotted with oil-well barracks. It was seven miles west of Los Angeles. Before
that it was the La Brea Rancheria.
When
the bones rose above the tar for a minute you could see whites of ribs,
craniums, unidentifiable skeletal parts.
In
Los Angeles way before Los Angeles was here. Way before we woke up that morning
and got in the car. Before parents, but maybe not before the ocean and palm
trees.
Did it ever stop roiling,
blowing methane bubbles, lurching, turning up bones?
What
is under the earth? The past? No, layers.
Archaeologists
call it “a carnivore trap” since so many carnivores were killed when they chased
prey who ran into it. They couldn’t escape the bubbling tar, which is asphalt,
the lowest grade of crude oil. Now migratory birds get stuck in it. Asphalt
preserves bones, mummifies the ancient by throwing it into view —a clock that
keeps and kills time.
What
made the tar constantly move?
I
found the names of the layers at home in The
World Book Encyclopedia for Children: “lithosphere, asthenosphere, mesospheric mantle, crust, outer core, inner core. The geologic component layers of earth are at increasing
depths below the surface.”
Where were the subternauts I wondered? John
Glen had recently landed on the moon. I wanted to be an astronaut who went in
the other direction. I collected rocks, mostly quartz --and shells from the
beach. A start to making contact with the first layer.
When I went down, my father would accompany me. I was sure.
Travelling through the lithosphere into the asthenosphere
and beyond, I’d speak rock and see in the dark. Time would compress under the
weight of the layers. When I surfaced, my mother would barely have realized I
was gone, though I would have descended through eons of schist.
Persephone
would lead me –she who is named for disaster “destroyer of light.” She who knew
how to navigate a subterranean love. Are the outer and inner cores named after
Kore aka Demeter, Persephone’s mother? –She who roamed the earth in anguish at
the disappearance of her daughter abducted by Hades? —Demeter, goddess of
agriculture who mourns in the fallow Fall and Winter when Persephone was
required, wanted(?), to return to Hades –Demeter-Kore who became joyful and returned
to tending the earth’s cultivation when she and Persephone were reunited in the
Spring and Summer?
I was a girl who could also access the molten.
At night, I fell asleep with my eyes open. As long
as they remained open the witch who stirred her cauldron of boiling, lurching
brew, couldn’t enter my room. Open-eyed I saw the tar pits at night when no one
was there --mirroring the vivid L.A. sky – white bones surfaced as underground stars.
Coyotes howled for me to go out and join them. Mountain lions rambled at night in
our canyon.
In the Fall the smell of fire was often in the
air. On the way to school the car radio reported a new one, out of control, in
our area. “Could it burn our house?” I asked my father. “No, never.” he
replied. That afternoon my grandfather appeared in front of school to walk us
to his nearby house. We’d been evacuated. From the safety of TV, we watched our
street blaze, trying to detect our house through the flames on screen.
Could the tar pits burn? Had they already burned?
In despair and rage Demeter ravages the earth’s
surface in the Fall, scorching acres, to reveal where the abductor has hidden
her daughter. We call it “fire season” in California and other Mediterranean
places.
It was the summer when I was ten years old. My
Father no longer lived with us. My mother enrolled me in Mr. Quiggley’s summer
program. He read the Iliad aloud while
we seven kids, ages 8 –13, dissected pregnant sharks in a church basement. Or, he
read us purportedly “Chumash” tales, then piled us into his station wagon for a
visit to the past aka an “archaeological dig.” Delicately, as he’d
demonstrated, we brushed encrusted earth from objects barely detectable to the
untrained eye --obsidian arrowheads, mortars and pestles, among other
“artifacts” plentiful in the ground of early 1960’s LA.
When I was twenty-two I sent bones I’d found in
a field on the island of Paros back to myself in San Francisco. The postal
clerk asked me to open the box for customs. The Greek women in the Post Office
exclaimed in horror and reprimanded me for stealing bones. Maybe they thought
the bones were human –though no human could have a femur that large or a skull
of such narrow shape.
In what movie does a girl send bones to
herself? What travel trash book shows that women know how to descend and
return? I didn’t tell anyone that I loved the smell of gasoline and was excited
to pull up to a pump anticipating the fumes that would enter the car.
How to make a movie of a girl’s profession as a
subternaut, her training at the edge of the La Brea Tar Pits? Skillfully she descends
riding gravity thermals, scanning the chthonic for those trapped in the roiling
sludge. She gets lost with them, mostly men, in the inchoate. Then she guides them
to the surface. Adept of extraction, under daylight she bestows gifts. Then many
forget and believe they are the alchemists of insight. Believe they can make
wheat grow and navigate netherworlds.
Lost again, they return for more from this
child Inanna and her underground sanctuaries, miner who feels and speaks for
those who can’t. While she, shining, able and glad to be of service, runs after
her dad’s stray tennis balls –and begins to wonder whether she has the right
job?
It would be an abstract film. Maybe by Stan Brakhage.
It might never name its location. It would invoke the tar pits as texture and
atmosphere. In it a young woman might eat six pomegranate seeds -- not knowing
that to eat with one’s captor forces one into eternal captivity. It would be
projected on the surface of the Tar Pits on a moonless night. It could be
called “The Miracle Mile.”

Susan Gevirtz’s most recent books include Burns (Pamenar), Hotel
abc (Nightboat) and Aerodrome Orion & Starry Messenger (Kelsey
Street). Her critical books are Coming Events (Collected Writings) (Nightboat),
and Narrative’s Journey: The Fiction and Film Writing of Dorothy Richardson
(Peter Lang). “Sun Worship,” an excerpt from her manuscript Guide School, is a
recent chapbook from YoYo Labs. “Doctor Shaman,” another excerpt from Guide
School is a chapbook from above/ground Press, and “The Guides,” another
excerpt, is a forthcoming chapbook from Antiphony Press. She was associate
editor of HOW(ever), a journal of modernist/innovative directions in women’s
poetry and scholarship. In 2004, with poet and restorer of maritime
antiquities, Siarita Kouka, she founded the Paros Symposium, an annual meeting
of Greek and Anglophone poets. Gevirtz was Assistant Professor at Sonoma State
University, California, for ten years, and subsequently taught in many MFA in
poetry programs, the Visual and Critical Studies and MFA programs at California
College of the Arts. She is based in San Francisco.